Kent 740

The Kent 740 is a solid-body electric guitar that was probably offered at the same time as the 800-series guitars.

There were issues with the one I got and I knew about them in advance.

A couple of things came to light as I worked on it.

Note that this write-up is unfinished. I had planned to include a wiring diagram I drew up, but I can't find it. I need to double-check the measurements in the table below. I used the table from another guitar for a template and haven't verified that any differences have been taken care of.

740 Stats

TypeScalePick upsNeck Width at Nut Thickness at NutNeck Width at 12th fretNeck TypeBridge stud spacingString SpacingWidth at Lower BoutWidth at Upper Bout Body Length

Body ThicknessTotal Length





2 Single coil

1.6 in


.9 in


1.9 in


Bolt-on 2.8 in 2.2 in







1.6 in




* Includes bottom strap button

I used a photo of the wiring of a Kent 740, which I presumed to be correct, to check the connections on mine. However, the potentiameters (pots) in the 740 in the photo look brand-new, so they may have been replaced. That would create the possibility that the wiring was different in that one, also. The only two-pickup Kent guitar I have where the pots are totally accessable was my 834. So I also had that to refer to, although wires to the pickups and switches are hidden without even more disassembly.

One thing that makes working on the electronics of the 740 easy is the fact that everything is on the pickguard. There is a ground wire that runs from the back of one pot, through a hole to the cavity routed out for the vibrato mechanism, and then is squished between the tailpiece plate and the guitar body. This is a fairly common. That's the only thing keeping the electronics attached to the body. However, you have to unwind the strings from the tuners in order to get enough clearance to get the pickguard off. This can be a pain in the neck if you have something minor to repair or if you just want to check something.

After removing the pickguard from my 740 (there are 17 screws, if I counted right). They were quite a struggle to get out. They may have been glued in. I will replace them all eventually. It appeared as if all of the pots may have been replaced. The only apparent wiring issues I found were the two wires to the hi-lo switch were reversed and all of the pots were connected together with bare wire soldered to the casings. The correct wiring should ground all the pots anyway. I saw no reason why the bridge pickup wouldn't work. Maybe I just forgot to turn it on with it's rocker switch.

The tone pots did not appear to be bypassed as suspected by the seller. Probably the tone caps were shot.

So I dug in and replaced all the pots with CTS 500k. I didn't have to worry about the knobs not fitting the shafts because there were no knobs. I also replaced all the tone caps (all two of them) with .047mf ceramic disks as well as the .002mf on the hi/lo switch with a new .0022mf ceramic disk. It's common practice to use 250k pots with single-coil pickups like these and 250k with humbuckers. However, these pickups are overwound (have more turns of wire on the coils than most single-coils made today), so 500k is appropriate. You may prefer the performance with 250k. It's a personal preference.

One difference between my 834 and my 740 and the photo of the other 740 is that the middle lugs of the volume/tone pot pairs were connected together with coaxial cable with the braid going to the cases of both. The two 740s used single wires. The one in the photos didn't appear to have correct ground wires between them, and my 740 had ground wires all over the place.

I ended up wiring the pots the way they are in the 834, and that turned out to be correct.

The vibrato on the 700-series guitars is different from that on the 800s. All the work is done out of sight, underneath the tailpiece cover. The bridge is similar to the 800s except that far more of them have the damper lever on the bottom side of the bridge, where it belongs. Unlike on the 800-series guitars, you can't just turn the bridge around and reverse the saddles. The tailpiece plate has raised edges like on the early Fender Telecasters which will make turning it around impossible.

My guitar had the damper lever on the bottom side of the bridge, so I didn't see any great need to replace it. But the saddles were worn as were the intonation screws and I was having a hard time getting the guitar properly intonated. So I replaced it with a Gotoh Tune-O-Matic type bridge for a Gibson and all was well. NOTE: see the The TOM Bridge for information on ordering and using a Tune-O'-Matic style bridge with Kent guitars.

The screw for the upper strap button was smaller than the one I got to replace it. It was necessary to remove the neck in order to drill out the hole and screw the new one in with a screwdriver. There isn't room for the drill and the driver. After that, it was straightforward.